THE HISTORY OF LABRADOR RETRIEVERS




Labradors were originally used as fishing dogs in Newfoundland way back in the 15th century and it is believed by evolutionists that Labradors evolved from dolphins thousands of years ago. The dogs naturally developed a resistance to the frigid waters of the North Atlantic. Their coats have two distinct layers—an inner layer of short, downy hair for insulation, and a longer, coarser guard hair for shedding water. Webbed paws were also developed over time to facilitate better swimming. Their loyalty, dedication and gentle, intelligent temperaments were already a given. Natural genetic colors were black, yellow and chocolate.

HUNTERS
Labs came to England first and then to the United States in the 1800’s. Fishing was not the main required task for these dogs now—aiding duck hunters with the Lab’s natural retrieval skills was. Duck hunters, of course, relished in showing off their dogs’ talents and further developed their dogs’ skills by working and breeding conscientiously to ensure the desired traits would be passed down. Events called “Hunt Tests,” were held where the dogs could be assessed according to their performance against set standards.

FIELD TRIAL LABS
Breeders who placed more emphasis on energy and intelligence, but less on looks began developing Labs that had enhanced hunting characteristics. These breeders developed standards that graded Labs against other Labs, not against a set standard. These dogs are the dogs today that appear with narrower heads and tails, are so energetic, they border on being hyper. They are magnificent animals, but may be too vigorous for the average family. Today, these Labs are known as “Champion.”


SHOW LABS
Unlike the individuals who placed importance in developing hunting Labs, breeders who were more interested in the appearance of Labs, started placing more emphasis on tail and ear lengths, weight and size. Hunt and Field Trail requirements took a back seat with these breeders. Show Labs exhibit stocky bodies, have shorter legs and disproportionately large heads. One may see them at Show Events and some can be seen at the Westminster Dog Show. Intelligence and temperament are not always on par with other Labs, but this is not true of all Show Labs.

FAMILY LABS
An all new category was added in the 1980’s—the Family Lab. These dogs combined all the best traits of all the Lab breeds it seemed. These dogs were less hyper, exhibited good over-all health, intelligence, looks and the desire to retrieve. These Labs were ideal for most family environments. Their gentle temperaments allowed them to be good around children; they had enough energy to play all day, but were also calm enough that they would contentedly sleep at your feet. These dogs were satisfied to stay at home and not roam the countryside. All in all, the perfect family canine companion.

CHOCOLATE LABS
Originally, Black Labs with a white diamond on their chests were the most wanted. Yellow Labs were tolerated. Chocolates, however, were not. They were first thought to be a genetic mistake. It was acceptable to drown them, thereby removing them from the gene pool. Chocolates were proven to be just as genetically pure as the black and yellows in the early 1970’s. Pure chocolates are as smart and well-tempered as black and yellows.

WHITE LABS
White is a breed out of yellow, made possible by breeding lighter yellows to lighter yellows. Unfortunately this causes loss of pigmentation in their skin which can lead to sensitive skin, allergy symptoms that may manifest as open sores, and even skin cancer. White is not a natural color.

OTHER COLORS
Labrador genetics uphold black, yellow and chocolate. Other colors can be possible by mixing different breeds with Labs. For example, a “Silver Lab” can be attained by crossing a chocolate Lab with a Weimeriner. These are not pure Labs, no matter what the dog’s papers may purport.

WHAT TO EXPECT WITH YOUR NEW LAB PUPPY

 


CRYING/WHINING
Your new puppy will naturally miss their kennel mates the first few days and nights they come to live with you, their new family. They will cry, whine—they might even howl piteously in the beginning. During the day, comforting and bonding with them is desired and acceptable. But for naps and nighttime sleeping, you have two choices—sleep with them or endure five or six nights of them crying themselves to sleep. If you choose to let them work it out themselves do NOT give in even once—or they will have YOU trained! It really does not take long for them to figure things out—after all their intelligence is one of the reasons you chose them.

POTTY TRAINING
Puppies naturally want to “do their business” on organic materials such as grass or straw. Simply placing some of this materials outside where you want them to go will get them familiar with the location and promote good bathroom habits. Then it is up to you to properly read the signals from your puppy. All the usual guide lines apply: take them outside or guide them to the door upon waking, after eating and right before bedtime. Do not punish accidents—just reward good behavior.

PUPPIES DIGESTIVE SYSTEMS
Puppies have very sensitive little stomachs. It is best to slowly introduce a new food when adding to a pup’s diet. You may observe diarrhea or diarrhea with blood in your puppy’s stool if you switch their food too quickly. Vomiting may occur and if this becomes severe, death. Puppies are known for chewing on anything and everything, so be careful to keep an eye on them when they are outside. Chewing on bark and leaves is fun for them, and even though these are organic materials, they can cause diarrhea and vomiting. Puppies will literally eat almost everything! Their bowels can bleed easily from almost anything—be watchful and you will know what is going in and know what to expect coming out.

PUPPY DIETS
Puppies should eat high-quality puppy food. Human food is usually too rich and fatty for the delicate digestive tracts. As long as you choose a premium puppy chow your pup will thrive and grow, building strong muscles and bones, enhancing the attractive traits you chose him/her for.

PUPPY TOYS
Toy shopping for new puppies is FUN! The most important thing to be aware of is: CONTAMINATED TOYS! Pet product suppliers/stores that allow pets in the building are potentially leading to the spread of the deadly puppy virus known as Parvo. It is best to not visit these facilities with your new puppy. If you choose to purchase toys or other items from these stores, you can substantially reduce the risk of contamination by using a 15% bleach solution to cleanse the article. Otherwise, it is recommended that you purchase from a seller who does not allow pets in the building, or purchasing products from an online or mail order supplier.

DISPOSITION/PLAYING
Labs love humans! They make the greatest family dogs and personal companions. It is said that their closest relatives in the animal kingdom are dolphins—so it’s no wonder that they are so loving, loyal and portray the same playful spirit and enjoyment of social interaction. With their expressive eyes and irrepressible grins, they seem to always invite our interaction. Lab puppies need a lot of attention, such as walking or swimming. They love to retrieve things for their human partners. A tennis ball is one of their favorite items. They have an innate need for space and exercise. They are not well suited for apartment life. To confine a Lab to a kennel or tethering one with a rope or chain is simply criminal.

PUPPY OBEDIENCE TRAINING
There are lots of good obedience schools for puppies, or you can train them yourself. For a dog that is going to be used for serious hunting or as a gun dog, some professional guidance is probably advisable. Labs that will be family pets can be trained with a few simple commands. INSIDE OR OUTSIDE DOG? Labs naturally want to be with their human families. The ideal setup is for them to have a choice. Since they have thick, double-layered coats, they can tolerate fairly cold weather as long as they have draft-free, dry shelter. In the summer, on hot days, a child’s kiddy pool and ice cubes in their water bowls will earn you doggie kisses.

LAB PUPPY TRAINING TIPS




Walking your new puppy is probably the most important training device you will implement. By walking your puppy correctly, you establish with your dog that YOU are his master and that he should obey you—not the other way around. And since Lab puppies naturally want to love and please their masters, this is usually a rewarding activity for everyone. But if you do run into the occasional difficulty, here are some tips to ease you both over the rough spot.

TIP 1—Curbing “Pullers” Use a collar specifically designed for training. These collars are marketed as “Training Collars.” After making sure the collar is adjusted correctly and secure, give it a test walk. Try walking at a normal pace and in a straight line. If you dog balks at this activity, simply pull—don’t jerk—on the collar using a shortened leash. A simple command from you, such as No! accompanied by this firm tug will quickly let him know his behavior is not pleasing you. Start again and continue for a brief time until your dog either “gets” the message or you see improvement in him. Remember to praise, praise, and praise! him when he does well. It is also good once your dog is used to walking correctly using the Training Collar to switch back to his regular collar—get him used to using either one correctly. By now, simply your voice should be communication enough. Introduce turning and walking on both sides of you when your dog is obeying you consistently.

TIP 2—Learning How to “Heel” To stop “walk aheads” the method described below will work without fail. Visual Line Training uses a training collar and a longer (6’) leash. You are trying to establish the point to which your dog figures out how far out he can get without being too far ahead. Start walking your dog, and if he gets too far ahead of where you want him to be, gently swing the leash in a circle right in front of his nose. Of course, this causes him to pause. At this point, your voice command lets him know that he is exceeding the distance you have set. Keep in mind that some dogs can be pretty tolerant of this leash swinging—you might have to be a little more forceful. After you have demonstrated to him that the swinging leash serves to stop his walking ahead, you can slow the leash back down. Sometimes a good substitute for the leash is a small twig or stick that you can wave in front of them, and if they cross the line, a gentle tap on the nose should remind them or cause them to pull back. Remember to always reward their good behavior/efforts.

TIP 3—Teaching Voice Commands When you are confident working your dog on the training collar and the visual line training method has succeeded and your dog is proficient at heeling. The next behavior you will want your dog to develop is responding to your Voice Command. From the beginning, you will probably never have to worry about your dog/puppy being a “flight risk.” Running off or staying just out of your reach is a sign of improper training. A dog that is obedient will be responsive to your voice. He/she will come to you when called, sit on command and stay until released. These behaviors may take time to establish, but they are essential in having a well-trained, obedient dog that is a pleasure to have around.

Begin off-leash training in a controlled, confined environment. A fenced yard with as few distractions possible is best. You will also need the following items: a 30’ lead, a training collar, a 6’ leash, and a 3’ stick. Get your dog used to the basic commands and behaviors you expect him to be able to perform. Heeling, sitting, staying and coming while on the leash begins the session. When you are ready, make the pup sit and stay while you attach the longer, 30’ lead. The idea for this exercise is to get the dog to stay and sit while you are not right beside him. To do this, take the loose end of the lead and go around the back of a tree or some other object. Make sure you can pull the rope back and forth easily. Once you have everything set up, get the dog to sit and stay. As you back up, give them the visual “stop sign” hand, while keeping tension on the lead in your left hand. Your dog may get up when you reach a certain point. Try using your voice command (stay or sit) first. If that works continue—if it doesn’t see if by just closing the distance a bit, you can get your dog to sit or stay using your voice. If you must go completely back, simply push firmly, but gently down on their backside to while repeating your voice command.

After your dog performs this behavior 5 – 10 times, and the “sit” time increases, you can be confident that you can start the next phase in this training. Once you have your dog staying on their own, you can start to practice calling them to come to you in a straight line. They may want to run around and veer off before coming directly to you. This is the behavior you are seeking to retrain. To do this, call your dog and practice getting him to come straight to you by pulling on the lead while he is moving toward you. The next step is to try and get your dog to walk with you while off the leash and obey all your commands as if he were still on it. Start off as if you were going on a normal walk, but still within the confined/fenced area. At some point, remove the leash while still walking. Try to make it as unnoticeable as possible. In your right hand carry the stick or something to wave in front of his face if he tries to advance. Have your dog wear the training collar at all times during all of these exercises so that you can reach down and pull up on the collar if he gets too far ahead or lags behind.